Hosenji Onsen, Kokonoe, on the Machida river in the middle of the spa Ryokan hotel (40 rooms, 3 with a half-open-air spring bath; two private open-air baths for staying guests) ★★★☆☆

Hosenji Kanko Hotel Yumotoya

宝泉寺観光ホテル 湯本屋

Does Hosenji Kanko Hotel Yumotoya allow tattoos? In a private bath

Private bath only

Yumotoya’s private open-air bath, Komakichi-no-yu, holds ten people, the largest in Hosenji by the hotel’s count, and comes with a reading room of shelves and old sofas at its door.

Yumotoya publishes no tattoo rule. Staying guests can hire one of two private open-air baths for 50 minutes, the large Komakichi-no-yu or a smaller one for two or three, and three special rooms have their own half-open-air bath, so a tattooed guest can avoid the large baths.

Illustration of Hosenji Kanko Hotel Yumotoya in Hosenji Onsen, Kokonoe, on the Machida river in the middle of the spa

The bath

Hosenji's spring, by local legend, rose where the wandering monk Kuya struck his staff about a thousand years ago. It flows at more than 2,000 liters a minute, clear and easy on the skin, and in 2009 the spa declared every bath free-flowing. The hotel lists its simple and weakly alkaline water for neuralgia, the skin and fatigue. Two large baths swap between men and women: Kawasemi-no-yu, floored with ancient cypress and with an open-air tub in the trees, and Dan-no-yu, named for the novelist Kazuo Dan, glass-walled around a maple, with the open-air Hotaru-no-yu where fireflies show in late May and early June.

The private baths are open to staying guests only. Komakichi-no-yu is an open-air bath for up to ten, which the hotel calls the largest in the area, ¥2,000 for 50 minutes; a smaller, deeper one for two or three costs ¥1,000. Book at check-in; they run 3 to 9 p.m., last booking at 8. The photo of Komakichi-no-yu shows a wide pool of dark stone under a reed-thatched shelter, with a bamboo fence and trees.

Three special rooms have a half-open-air bath of the same free-flowing spring.

The hotel

A forty-room riverside hotel. The three special rooms pair a 10 to 14 mat Japanese room with a low-bed bedroom and the half-open-air bath. Other rooms are Japanese-modern Japanese-Western, Japanese and Western rooms of about 24 to 32 square meters, some with a kitchenette, plus older retro rooms; the modern rooms have smart TVs. Meals are served in a dining room. Wheelchairs can be borrowed. Check-in from 3 p.m. (last at 8 p.m.), curfew 11 p.m.

Good to know

Getting there

Take the JR Kyudai line to Bungo-Mori; the hotel puts Oita to Bungo-Mori at about 1 hour 10 minutes. From the station an hourly bus reaches the hotel in about 20 minutes. Highway buses from Hakata, Oita and Yufuin stop at Kusu IC, a 15-minute walk from Bungo-Mori station.

Bungo-Mori STN · JR Kyudai Main Line, then the hourly bus to Hosenji Onsen
Not walkable.

Bus about 20 minutes, hourly; highway buses stop at Kusu IC, 15 minutes on foot from the station.

Where it is

Hakata STN Bungo-Mori STN change Yufuin no Mori 1 hr 47 min Kumamoto STN Kagoshima-Chuo STN Nagasaki STN Hotel location
Hosenji Onsen bus stop
  1. Yufuin no Mori 1 hr 47 min
  2. Hosenji bus 20 min
Hosenji Kanko Hotel Yumotoya · map data © OpenStreetMap contributors · open in Google Maps

What happens when you arrive

Use the bath in your room, or reserve a private bath at the front desk when you check in.

How we know

Bath layout confirmed, tattoo policy not published Checked on the official site (: the hot spring page lists the private open-air baths and their fees; the rooms page lists the rooms with a bath)

Best for: a private open-air bath big enough for ten, or a special room with its own spring tub

Private open-air baths for staying guests only: Komakichi-no-yu, the large one, ¥2,000 for 50 minutes; the small one, ¥1,000 for 50 minutes. Booked at check-in; 3 to 9 p.m., last booking 8 p.m. Three special Japanese-modern rooms (10 to 14 mats plus a bedroom) have a half-open-air bath of free-flowing spring water. Large baths 3 p.m. to midnight and 6 to 9 a.m. Bring towels from the room. Curfew 11 p.m. Cards accepted. Wheelchairs on loan.

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