Horibata-machi, on the hill at the entrance to Shiroyama Park, five minutes on foot above the old town Ryokan (a reservable open-air private bath in a detached hut and a bath in every room; two shared bath halls) ★★★☆☆

Futarishizuka Hakuun

飛騨高山温泉 二人静 白雲

Does Futarishizuka Hakuun allow tattoos? In a private bath

Private bath only

Futarishizuka Hakuun sits on the hill by Shiroyama Park, and its private open-air bath is a ring of dark boulders in a detached hut that looks out over the town.

Hakuun publishes no tattoo rule. A tattooed guest can bathe alone in the detached open-air private bath, ¥1,000 per group for 40 minutes, or in the room's own tub. Neither is spring water, except in the one special room with a hot spring open-air bath.

Illustration of Futarishizuka Hakuun in Horibata-machi, on the hill at the entrance to Shiroyama Park, five minutes on foot above the old town

The bath

The private bath is apart from the main building, in its own hut. It is a large open-air rock pool under a reed-lined roof, with a rest area attached, and the inn says the town shows clearly from the water and lights up after dark. It holds ordinary heated water, not spring water. A group pays ¥1,000 for 40 minutes. There are eight slots, the first at 4:30 p.m. and the last ending at 11 p.m. Sign up at the front desk once you have checked in; the inn takes no bookings ahead.

Every room has its own bath, of cypress or white ceramic, some half open to the air with the town below. These too are heated water. One room is the exception: an 8-mat special room whose open-air tub faces the wooded hillside and is fed with hot spring water, with a rest deck beside it.

The two shared halls trade between men and women by time of day, 3 p.m. to 11 p.m. and 6 a.m. to 9 a.m. Their cypress tubs hold Hida Takayama Onsen, an alkaline simple spring that is heated, filtered in a loop and chlorinated with no water added. The barrel tubs beside them are heated tap water.

The hotel

The inn is a Japanese-style building among trees above the town, and it says every room is laid out differently. Rooms are tatami mats, from 6 to 10 mats, with one that has beds; group rooms sleep three to six. Dinner is a kaiseki (a multi-course Japanese meal) built on Hida beef, as steak, shabu-shabu (thin-sliced meat swished in hot broth), seared sushi and roast beef, served in a private dining room or the hall, and breakfast is a set Japanese tray. A terrace and the lobby lounge look over the rooftops, toward Mount Hakusan on a clear day. Check-in is from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. for guests taking dinner. There is no day-use bathing.

Good to know

Getting there

From Nagoya Station take the JR Hida limited express to Takayama Station. The inn collects guests at the station between 3 p.m. and 6 p.m.: phone when you arrive and the car comes in about five minutes. Otherwise it is about five minutes by taxi or 15 to 20 minutes on foot, uphill at the end. The morning ride back to the station runs from 8 a.m. to 10 a.m. and is booked at the front desk after check-in. Parking is free, on a slope.

Takayama STN · JR Takayama Main Line
15 to 20 minutes, by the inn's count.

Free pickup 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. if you phone from the station; about 5 minutes by taxi.

Where it is

Nagoya STN Hida, JR’s limited express on the Takayama line about 2 h 25 Hotel location
Takayama STN
Futarishizuka Hakuun · map data © OpenStreetMap contributors · open in Google Maps

What happens when you arrive

Skip the shared baths and use one of the private baths. No reservation needed. Check the sign to see which are free.

How we know

Bath layout confirmed, tattoo policy not published Checked on the official site (: the bath page gives the private open-air bath with its price and time slots, and the room pages give a bath in each room)

Best for: a private open-air bath over the rooftops of Takayama, and a tub in your own room

The private open-air bath stands in a detached hut with its own rest area and is not hot spring water, by the inn's own statement. It costs ¥1,000 per group for 40 minutes in eight slots from 4:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. It is booked at the front desk after arrival and cannot be reserved ahead, so late arrivals may find it full. Room tubs are cypress or ceramic and are not hot spring water; the only exception is one 8-mat special room with a hot spring open-air bath, whose shower freezes and is shut off from mid-December to late March. In the shared halls the cypress tubs are hot spring and the barrel tubs are heated tap water.

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