Aioi-cho, in the town center a minute from the Miyagawa morning market Ryokan (main building and Yubokuan new wing; two hot spring bath halls, no private bath, a bath in every room) ★★★★☆

Ryokan Tanabe

旅館田邊

Does Ryokan Tanabe allow tattoos? Yes!

Nothing to cover

Ryokan Tanabe has taken guests in central Takayama since 1934, and it pipes Hida Takayama hot spring water into a cypress tub and a rock tub that tattooed guests are told they may use.

Tanabe's FAQ says guests with tattoos may use the baths. It asks those with large tattoos to be considerate, for example by bathing at a quieter hour. There is no private bath; every room has its own bath, which is heated tap water.

Illustration of Ryokan Tanabe in Aioi-cho, in the town center a minute from the Miyagawa morning market

The bath

Tanabe began using Hida Takayama Onsen in its indoor baths in 2009. The water is a simple spring, mildly alkaline at pH 8.1, clear and a little thick to the touch, and the inn passes on its local name, the beautiful-skin water. It is heated to bathing temperature, filtered in a loop and chlorinated. The inn lists it for chronic muscle and joint pain, stiffness, sensitivity to cold, fatigue and trouble sleeping.

There are two bath halls. One has an indoor tub of cypress, the other an indoor tub set in natural rock, and each opens onto a small outdoor space with a Shigaraki pottery pot bath. Only the indoor tubs hold spring water; the pots are filled with heated tap water. The inn admits the baths are not large and says guests value them for being in the middle of town.

Hours are 3 p.m. to 11 p.m. and 6 a.m. to 8:30 a.m., with the morning start moved to 6:30 a.m. from December to March. The two halls are not swapped between men and women at present. Shampoo, soap, razors, lotion and hair dryers are supplied.

The hotel

The inn opened in 1934, the year the Takayama Main Line was completed, and calls itself the longest-running ryokan in its district. The main building is more than 100 years old, built in the Hida style, and three of its second-floor rooms were redone in 2023. The new wing, Yubokuan, opened in 2009 with a different theme on each floor and ground-floor rooms with a half-open-air cypress bath facing a pocket garden. Dinner, a kaiseki (a multi-course Japanese meal) with A5 Hida beef, and breakfast are served in the room or in a private dining room. A calligraphy by the novelist Ryotaro Shiba, who stayed in 1963, hangs by the front desk.

Good to know

Getting there

From Nagoya Station the JR Hida limited express reaches Takayama Station in about 2 hours 20 minutes on the inn's access chart; a direct Hida from Osaka takes about 4 hours 20 minutes. From Takayama Station the inn is about seven minutes on foot or about three minutes by taxi. It runs no shuttle. In rain or snow it suggests walking under the arcade along Kokubunji-dori street.

Takayama STN · JR Takayama Main Line
About 7 minutes.

No shuttle; about 3 minutes by taxi from the station.

Where it is

Nagoya STN Hida, JR’s limited express on the Takayama line about 2 h 25 Hotel location
Takayama STN
Ryokan Tanabe · map data © OpenStreetMap contributors · open in Google Maps

What happens when you arrive

Check in and go to the bath. There's no seal to buy and nothing to mention at the front desk.

How we know

Confirmed from official site (the FAQ page, under the heading on guests with tattoos)

ご利用いただけます。大きなサイズのタトゥーや刺青の場合にはご利用時間をずらすなど、ご配慮いただけますと幸いです。

The operator’s own wording. Show it if anyone asks.

Best for: a 1934 inn in the old town center whose FAQ welcomes tattooed bathers

Two bath halls, each with an indoor hot spring tub (one cypress, one rock) and an outdoor Shigaraki pottery pot bath. The inn states that the indoor tubs are natural hot spring and the pot baths are heated tap water. Room baths, the half-open-air cypress tubs of the Yubokuan ground floor included, are also heated tap water. Baths open 3 p.m. to 11 p.m. and 6 a.m. to 8:30 a.m. (from 6:30 a.m. December to March); the sides do not currently swap. No private bath.

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