Beniya Mukayu
べにや無何有
Does Beniya Mukayu allow tattoos? In a private bath
Mukayu doesn’t publish a tattoo policy, but every one of its 16 rooms has a cypress open-air bath on hot-spring water. You never need the shared baths.
The inn publishes no tattoo rule for its two bath halls, Gensei and Usuko.
The bath
Every room has a hinoki (Japanese cypress) open-air bath on Yamashiro hot-spring water, plus a shower booth. Most rooms look onto the mountain garden, and the Japanese, Western and junior-suite rooms have a moon-viewing terrace; in good weather a hammock is hung there. The special room Byakuroku has a tucked-away garden bath.
The two bath halls, Gensei and Usuko, each have an indoor bath, an open-air bath and a sauna. Gensei’s tub has a round backrest built in, and Usuko is plain white cypress. These are shared baths with no published tattoo rule.
The hotel
Sixteen rooms: four Japanese rooms and two junior suites of 70 square meters, two Western rooms of 60, six executive suites of 95 to 100, and two special rooms, Wakamurasaki (120) and Byakuroku (110). The garden grows around a sacred red pine over 300 years old, with wild cherry, maple and camellia, on the site of an old temple’s main hall. Check-in is 3 p.m., checkout 11 a.m. Meals are kaiseki (a multi-course Japanese meal) in the dining room, Horin. Wi-Fi is free, and there’s parking.
Good to know
- No preschool children and no groups of seven or more. Children 7 to 12 pay a special rate, so contact the inn to book them.
- Stairs to the Western rooms. There are 18 steps at the entrance.
- A spa on site. Enniwa uses hot-spring water and medicinal herbs in its treatments.
Getting there
Yamashiro Onsen bus stop · Hokutetsu Kaga bus
A short walk, up a narrow lane from the town.
From Tokyo, take the Hokuriku Shinkansen to Kaga-Onsen, about 2 hours 40 minutes. Some trains run straight through; if yours ends at Kanazawa, change there to the Tsurugi. From Kaga-Onsen Station, the Hokutetsu Kaga bus reaches Yamashiro Onsen in 15 minutes. The CANBUS Mountain Route stops there too.
Where it is
Yamashiro Onsen bus stop
- Hokuriku Shinkansen 2 hr 40 min from Tokyo
- Hokutetsu Kaga bus 15 min
- Shinkansen tickets Seats between any two stations, booked by date.
- Hokuriku Arch Pass ¥35,000 · 7 days Seven days between Tokyo, Kanazawa and Osaka, with reserved seats on the Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo to Kaga-Onsen.
- Japan Rail Pass from ¥53,000 · 7, 14 or 21 days For a trip that takes in several regions by Shinkansen and JR lines.
What happens when you arrive
Use the open-air bath in your room.
How we know
Bath layout confirmed, tattoo policy not published Checked on the official site (the rooms page: every room has a shower booth and a hot spring open-air bath)
Best for: couples who want a cypress tub facing a mountain garden, with no young children around
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