Illustration of Iizaka on the Surikami River in early summer: an old timber bathhouse on the bank, inns and willows along the clear water, and green hills in morning sun
Fukushima · about 2 h from Tokyo · Onsen towns

Tattoo friendly onsen in Iizaka and Tsuchiyu

Iizaka is the big old spa town north of Fukushima city, at the end of a little railway, with its inns packed along the Surikami River and more up the gorge at Anahara. Tsuchiyu is a smaller village of inns and workshops that turn wooden kokeshi dolls in the hills to the south-west, forty minutes by bus. Neither town has an inn that lets a tattoo into a shared bath in writing, but both are full of baths you can lock: free family baths at Shinmatsuba, Aoba and Okina, rooms with their own tub at Kawasemi and Harumiya, and Yumori Onsen Hostel, which calls its spring tattoo-friendly and sends tattooed guests to its private baths.

15 properties

Private onsen and baths in Iizaka and Tsuchiyu

Tattoos are fine in a private onsen, whether a bath you reserve or one in your room. The communal baths are restricted, or the policy is unconfirmed. What this means

Illustration of Takumi no Kokoro Yoshikawaya in Anahara, on the Surikami River about 5 minutes by car upstream of Iizaka-Onsen Station
Anahara, on the Surikami River about 5 minutes by car upstream of Iizaka-Onsen Station Ryokan with five open-air-bath rooms and a barrier-free private bath ★★★☆☆ Bath layout confirmed, tattoo policy not published

Takumi no Kokoro Yoshikawaya

匠のこころ 吉川屋

Yoshikawaya publishes no tattoo rule. It rents a private bath, Yuno, with an indoor tub and an open-air tub, for 45 minutes at ¥2,750 per group, booked at the front desk. Five guest rooms also have their own open-air bath of source-flowing spring water.

Best for: travelers who want a cypress tub on their own balcony over the Surikami River gorge, or a wheelchair-accessible private bath

Private bath Yuno: an indoor tub and an open-air tub, step-free between them, with a barrier-free toilet, call button and shower chair; a bath wheelchair is on loan. ¥2,750 per group for 45 minutes, in hourly slots from 6 a.m. to 11 p.m., booked at the front desk; 90 minutes on showing a disability certificate. Five rooms with an open-air bath, all source-flowing: three in the Kounkaku wing (Wakaba, Aoba, Momiji) with a cypress tub and no indoor bath, and two special rooms in the Ryounkaku wing, a Japanese-Western room with a cypress tub and a Japanese room with a rock tub. Shared baths swap between men and women morning and night; saunas in both large baths, 3 p.m. to midnight. Day bathing Sundays only, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., ¥1,200. All rooms non-smoking. Free parking for 150 cars.

Takumi no Kokoro Yoshikawaya tattoo policy → See details and book
Illustration of Oyado Kawasemi in Hisui-no-Sato, on the south edge of Iizaka, about 10 minutes by car from Iizaka-Onsen Station
Hisui-no-Sato, on the south edge of Iizaka, about 10 minutes by car from Iizaka-Onsen Station Twelve-room ryokan, six rooms with their own open-air bath ★★☆☆☆ Bath layout confirmed, tattoo policy not published

Oyado Kawasemi

御宿かわせみ

Kawasemi publishes no tattoo rule, and it has no private bath to rent. Six of its twelve rooms, all on the ground floor, have their own open-air bath of Iizaka spring water, so guests in those rooms can bathe without using the shared baths.

Best for: couples who want a spring-water tub on a garden pond and a long dinner served in the room

Six ground-floor rooms with an open-air bath: a suite and a junior suite facing a bamboo grove, a detached suite villa and two detached junior suite villas facing the pond or a stream, and a maisonette suite villa. The FAQ says the room open-air baths and the large baths are hot spring water, with water added because the source is very hot; the indoor baths in the rooms are not spring water. The six second-floor rooms have no open-air bath. All meals in the room (groups of five or more eat in a small hall). Check-in 3 p.m., check-out 11 a.m. The whole inn is non-smoking. The glass museum on site is closed for now.

Oyado Kawasemi tattoo policy → See details and book
Illustration of Aoba Ryokan in Higashi-Horikiri, about 10 minutes on foot from Iizaka-Onsen Station
Higashi-Horikiri, about 10 minutes on foot from Iizaka-Onsen Station Ryokan with three lockable baths and three suites with their own spring bath ★★★☆☆ Bath layout confirmed, tattoo policy not published

Aoba Ryokan

青葉旅館

Aoba publishes no tattoo rule. Its answer is structural: all three of its baths, two indoor and one open-air, lock from the inside, so a party can bathe with nobody else in the room. Three special rooms also carry their own bath of source-flowing spring water.

Best for: couples who want a rock garden pool to themselves and dinner of many small homemade dishes in the room

Three baths, two indoor and one open-air, all lockable from inside for private use, open 24 hours; the inn names no fee and no booking for them. The open-air bath has a small sauna, straw hats for rain or sun, and a local sake brewed for the inn served at the bath. Three special rooms have their own bath: Fuji (an indoor bath over the courtyard), Bekkan (an open-air and an indoor bath, renovated in 2022, with meals in the room) and Hanare (indoor bath only, step-free room). Dinner and breakfast are served in the room. Check-in 3 p.m., check-out 10 a.m. The kitchen cannot adjust for allergies or dislikes.

Aoba Ryokan tattoo policy → See details and book
Illustration of Shinmatsuba Ryokan in Kiriyu-no-ue, on the Surikami River near Iizaka-Onsen Station
Kiriyu-no-ue, on the Surikami River near Iizaka-Onsen Station Ryokan with a lockable marble family bath ★★★☆☆ Bath layout confirmed, tattoo policy not published

Shinmatsuba Ryokan

新松葉旅館

Shinmatsuba publishes no tattoo rule. Its marble family bath locks from inside and is free around the clock, and its open-air bath above a waterfall can also be taken privately for about 40 minutes outside the winter months.

Best for: travelers curious about old Iizaka who want a free private soak in a marble tub

Baths: one men's, one women's, the marble family bath, and two open-air baths (one in winter). The family bath is free and can be locked 24 hours. Private use of the open-air bath is about 40 minutes and is not offered from December to February. All baths are 100 percent spring water, source-flowing. 17 rooms, all facing the Surikami River. Parking for about 20 cars. Bathing tax of ¥150 is charged separately. The kitchen serves set dinners built around ostrich, sweet potato, cactus, kangaroo or gamecock.

Shinmatsuba Ryokan tattoo policy → See details and book
Illustration of Kikuya Ryokan in Nishi-Horikiri, about 10 minutes on foot from Iizaka-Onsen Station
Nishi-Horikiri, about 10 minutes on foot from Iizaka-Onsen Station Ryokan with free private use of its open-air baths ★★☆☆☆ Bath layout confirmed, tattoo policy not published

Kikuya Ryokan

喜久屋旅館

Kikuya publishes no tattoo rule. Any staying guest can have one of its two open-air baths to themselves for 30 minutes at no charge, with the time set at the front desk on the day. Outside those slots the open-air baths are shared, men's and women's.

Best for: travelers on a budget who want a free half hour alone in a source-fed open-air bath

Two open-air baths (Tadanobu-no-yu and Otowa-no-yu) and two indoor large baths, one each for men and women, all 100 percent spring water flowing through. Private use of an open-air bath is free for 30 minutes; book the time at the front desk on the day. The indoor baths are open 24 hours. Twelve Japanese rooms, all with toilet and sink, two with their own bath; the inn does not say whether those two baths are spring water. Meals in the room at no extra charge. Bathing tax of ¥150 per adult is charged separately. Free pickup from Iizaka-Onsen Station from 3 to 5 p.m. Free parking.

Kikuya Ryokan tattoo policy → See details and book
Illustration of Keien Hananose in Anahara, above the Surikami River gorge, about 5 minutes by car from Iizaka-Onsen Station
Anahara, above the Surikami River gorge, about 5 minutes by car from Iizaka-Onsen Station Riverside hotel with a rentable family bath ★★★★☆ Bath layout confirmed, tattoo policy not published

Keien Hananose

渓苑 花の瀬

Hananose publishes no tattoo rule. Its family bath, an open-air tub on a balcony over the gorge, can be rented for an hour by one family or group for ¥2,200, so a party can bathe without sharing.

Best for: families or small groups who want an hour alone in a balcony tub facing a cliff of the gorge

Family bath: one hour per rental, one family or group, ¥2,200; guests of the sister inn Sanbo Tsukinose may use it too. The inn does not say how to book it. Guests of either inn may also use both inns' large baths. Special rooms have a cypress bath; the inn does not say whether that tub is spring water. Free parking for 200 cars, first come. Pickup from Iizaka-Onsen Station.

Keien Hananose tattoo policy → See details and book
Illustration of Okina Ryokan in Tennoji, Anahara, on the Surikami River upstream of Iizaka-Onsen Station
Tennoji, Anahara, on the Surikami River upstream of Iizaka-Onsen Station Family-run ryokan with a free cypress private bath; pets welcome ★★★☆☆ Bath layout confirmed, tattoo policy not published

Okina Ryokan

おきな旅館

Okina publishes no tattoo rule. It has one cypress private bath, free and used without booking whenever it is empty, so a party can bathe alone in the inn's own source water.

Best for: travelers with a small dog or cat who want a free cypress bath to themselves

One cypress private bath, free, walk in when it is empty; the men's bath (Kanze-no-yu) and women's bath (Hosho-no-yu) are tiled indoor baths with river windows. All baths are 100 percent source water, with no water added and no heating, open 24 hours. There is no open-air bath. Small dogs or cats, up to two, may stay in the room; bring a folding cage. Breakfast is served in the second-floor hall. Parking for 20 cars.

Okina Ryokan tattoo policy → See details and book
Illustration of Yumori Onsen Hostel in Donoue, on the west side of the village, about 5 minutes on foot from the Tsuchiyu Onsen bus terminal
Donoue, on the west side of the village, about 5 minutes on foot from the Tsuchiyu Onsen bus terminal Hot spring hostel with four private baths and day-use bathing ★☆☆☆☆ Confirmed

Yumori Onsen Hostel

Yumori calls its hot spring tattoo-friendly, and its day-trip page says how that works: a guest with tattoos books one of the four private baths and bathes alone. The welcome is worded around the private baths, so book one rather than counting on the large shared bath.

Yumoriは タトゥーをした人も安心してご利用いただける「Tattoo-Friendly(タトゥー・フレンドリー)」の温泉です / Yumoriでは、タトゥー・フレンドリーの方でも貸切風呂をご利用いただくことでプライベートな空間で安心して温泉をお楽しみいただけます。

Best for: travelers on a budget who want an hour alone in a source-fed private bath, overnight or on a day trip

Four private baths, each rented for 60 minutes by reservation: Ren (white indoor tub, ¥1,500), Ran (white indoor tub, ¥2,000), Kaede (cypress indoor tub, wheelchair accessible, ¥3,000) and Tsubaki (a cypress half-open-air tub and a black-tiled indoor tub, ¥4,000). Day visitors pay the bath admission on top. The large bath is open to staying guests from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. Day-use hours are 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. (out by 7 p.m.), and 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Saturdays (out by 4 p.m.); day use is closed every Thursday and the first Monday of the month. Rooms are sold without meals, with breakfast and dinner as options and a shared kitchen; the Universal Suite has its own source-fed cypress bath. Check-in 3 to 9:30 p.m., check-out 10 a.m.

Yumori Onsen Hostel tattoo policy → See details and book
Illustration of Mioto no Yado Sansuiso in Aburahata, at the upper end of the village above the Arakawa gorge
Aburahata, at the upper end of the village above the Arakawa gorge Ryokan with four private baths and rooms with their own hot spring tub ★★★★☆ Bath layout confirmed, tattoo policy not published

Mioto no Yado Sansuiso

水織音の宿 山水荘

Sansuiso publishes no tattoo rule for its shared baths. It rents four private baths by the hour, booked from the room after check-in, and the rooms of its Shisuitei wing each have their own source-fed tub, so a tattooed guest can bathe without sharing.

Best for: couples who want a source-fed tub on their own balcony, or a rooftop barrel bath under the night sky

Private baths, booked on the day by calling the front desk from the room after check-in, 3 to 11 p.m.: Seiten-no-yu (eighth-floor open-air barrel bath, ¥2,200 an hour), Taru-no-yu (fourth-floor half-open-air barrel bath, ¥1,100), Kawasemi-no-yu (fourth-floor indoor bath, ¥1,100) and Oshidori-no-yu (fifth-floor indoor bath with a shower, barrier-free, ¥1,100). Seiten-no-yu and Taru-no-yu have no shower. Every Shisuitei room has an open-air or half-open-air tub of source-flowing water, from twin rooms of about 56 square meters to suites of 84 and 92 square meters and a barrier-free Universal Suite. Check-in 3 p.m., check-out 10 a.m.

Mioto no Yado Sansuiso tattoo policy → See details and book
Illustration of Harumiya Ryokan in Suginoshita, on the Arakawa river at the lower end of the village
Suginoshita, on the Arakawa river at the lower end of the village Ryokan (10 rooms, each with its own hot spring tub) ★★★★☆ Bath layout confirmed, tattoo policy not published

Harumiya Ryokan

はるみや旅館

Harumiya publishes no tattoo rule. Every one of its ten rooms has its own source-flowing tub, and any of its four baths can be locked from the inside whenever it is free, so a tattooed guest never has to share a bath.

Best for: couples who want a hot spring tub in the room and a riverside rock bath they can lock for themselves

All ten rooms have a source-flowing tub: four Japanese-Western rooms on the second and third floors of the Akashiya wing with an open-air tub and a shower room; one Akashiya ground-floor room of Fukushima cedar with a granite half-open-air tub; one Sakura wing ground-floor room with a cypress open-air tub and its own garden; four Sakura wing rooms on the upper floors with a granite open-air tub. The four shared baths (a rock open-air bath by the river for about 15, a rooftop open-air tub of koyamaki (Japanese umbrella pine) wood and two indoor baths) need no booking: lock the door from inside when one is free. The inn says the indoor baths are recirculated. The baths stay open through the night until 9:30 a.m. The inn warns that its entrance is hard to find and asks guests to check the way before arriving.

Harumiya Ryokan tattoo policy → See details and book
Illustration of Tsuchiyu Onsen Public Bath Nakanoyu in Shimonomachi, in the middle of the village
Shimonomachi, in the middle of the village Public bathhouse with four private baths (day use) Bath layout confirmed, tattoo policy not published

Tsuchiyu Onsen Public Bath Nakanoyu

土湯温泉公衆浴場 中之湯

Nakanoyu publishes no tattoo rule. It rents four private baths for 50 minutes on top of the admission ticket, so a tattooed bather can have one alone.

Best for: day trippers who want a cheap private soak in the middle of the village

Private baths: four rooms, ¥1,500 per room for 50 minutes, for about three people, plus the admission ticket of ¥500 (¥250 for children aged 1 to 11). Open 9 a.m. to 9 p.m.; last entry for the large baths 8:30 p.m. and for the private baths 7:30 p.m. Closed Tuesdays (the next day when Tuesday is a holiday). A 12-ticket book costs ¥5,000. The rest room is limited to an hour a visit; no alcohol and no outside food. Parking for 20 cars. The building is a designated city evacuation shelter.

Tsuchiyu Onsen Public Bath Nakanoyu tattoo policy → See details and nearby hotels
Illustration of Hotel Mukaitaki in Suginoshita, on the Arakawa river by the Tsuchiyu Onsen bus stop
Suginoshita, on the Arakawa river by the Tsuchiyu Onsen bus stop Inn (9 rooms, each with its own open-air hot spring tub) Bath layout confirmed, tattoo policy not published

Hotel Mukaitaki

ホテル向瀧

Mukaitaki publishes no tattoo rule. All nine of its rooms have their own open-air tub of source-flowing hot spring water facing the river, so a tattooed guest can bathe in the room and skip the shared baths.

Best for: couples who want a modern room with an open-air tub over the river and a choice of French or Japanese dinner

Nine rooms, all facing the Arakawa, each with a source-flowing open-air tub of cypress, ceramic or granite: Japanese-Western rooms of 67 square meters (one of them barrier-free) and Japanese modern suites of 98 square meters, for one to four people. The shared baths (a large bath and an open-air bath on each side, and a sauna on each side) are open 3 p.m. to midnight and 5 to 10:30 a.m.; the sauna closes at 11 p.m. Check-in 3 p.m., check-out 11 a.m. Free parking for 12 cars, one of them accessible.

Hotel Mukaitaki tattoo policy → See details and book
Illustration of Gensen Yuan New Ogiya in Shitanomachi, in the middle of the village
Shitanomachi, in the middle of the village Ryokan with five private baths, three of them free ★★★☆☆ Bath layout confirmed, tattoo policy not published

Gensen Yuan New Ogiya

源泉湯庵 ニュー扇屋

New Ogiya publishes no tattoo rule. Staying guests can use three family baths free, with no booking, whenever one is empty, and two private open-air baths cost ¥2,750 for 45 minutes by reservation. Some Japanese rooms also have their own tub of the inn's spring.

Best for: dog owners and couples who want a source-flowing private bath and dinner in the room

Eight baths in all: three large baths (Saiun, Shoun, Kasen), three free family baths (Yama-no-yu, a half-open-air bath of hiba wood with a jet bath, Takara-no-yu and Gekkaro) used without booking whenever free, and two paid private open-air baths (Ogi-no-yu, a shallow fan-shaped tub, and Mori-no-yu, a wine-red ceramic tub) at ¥2,750 for 45 minutes for two, by reservation. Ogi-no-yu, Mori-no-yu and Yama-no-yu have no soap or shampoo. The Japanese rooms with bath have a tub fed from the inn's own source; the other room types have no bath. Day use 2 to 5:30 p.m. (last entry 5 p.m.), ¥900 for adults; day visitors can book a private bath at ¥2,750 for 45 minutes. Dogs of every size are accepted. Check-in 3 p.m., check-out 10 a.m.

Gensen Yuan New Ogiya tattoo policy → See details and book
Illustration of Kotaki Onsen in On the Arakawa gorge, upstream of the village center
On the Arakawa gorge, upstream of the village center Ryokan with ten balcony-tub rooms and two rooftop private baths ★★☆☆☆ Bath layout confirmed, tattoo policy not published

Kotaki Onsen

山峡のいで湯 小滝温泉

Kotaki publishes no tattoo rule. Ten of its rooms have a ceramic open-air tub of source-flowing water on the balcony, and two rooftop open-air baths are kept for private use, so a tattooed guest can bathe without sharing.

Best for: couples who want a Shigaraki-ware tub on the balcony and a rooftop barrel bath over the gorge

The ten rooms with a bath are all in the Nibankan (second building), 12-mat Japanese rooms with a Shigaraki-ware ceramic tub of source-flowing water on the balcony; the rooms in the Ichibankan (main building) have a toilet and washbasin but no bath. Two private open-air baths on the Nibankan roof: Mori-no-yu, a barrel tub of koyamaki wood 22 meters above the ground, and Yama-no-yu, a granite tub facing Mount Minowa. The inn does not publish a fee, a time limit or how to book them. The men's and women's baths, each with an indoor and an open-air tub, are open from check-in to check-out, through the night. Free self-service coffee from 8 to 10 a.m.

Kotaki Onsen tattoo policy → See details and book
Illustration of Tsuchiyu Bettei Satonoyu in Akutojiri, on the edge of the village inside Bandai-Asahi National Park
Akutojiri, on the edge of the village inside Bandai-Asahi National Park Ryokan (9 rooms, each with its own hot spring tub; every bath private) ★★★★☆ Bath layout confirmed, tattoo policy not published

Tsuchiyu Bettei Satonoyu

土湯別邸 里の湯

Satonoyu publishes no tattoo rule, and it needs none: every bath on site is taken by one party at a time, booked after arrival, and each of the nine rooms has its own tub of source water. A tattooed guest never shares a bath here.

Best for: couples who want a forest open-air pool to themselves and a cypress tub in the room

Four bathhouses, all on a private system: each party books a slot after arrival and has the bath for 30 to 40 minutes. Mizuhanada (a roofed half-open-air cypress bath facing old-growth forest) and Shinpeki (two open-air baths down steps through cedars, a large one edged in cypress and rock and a small octagonal tub) run 2 to 10:30 p.m. and 5:30 to 10 a.m.; Hajizome (an indoor bath of ancient cypress) and Seiran (a cypress half-open-air bath and an indoor bath with glass on three sides, with a powder room) run 2 to 11 p.m. and 5:30 to 10 a.m. Rooms: Shunyo (3) and Teriha (4) are two-room suites with an indoor tub of ancient cypress fed from the source; Keizen (2) are the luxury rooms with an open-air bath, Kobushi and the detached three-room Hanamura. Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays except in busy seasons. Children under 2 stay free. Check-in 2 p.m., check-out 10:30 a.m.

Tsuchiyu Bettei Satonoyu tattoo policy → See details and book
Traveler’s note

Four Iizaka inns refuse tattoos in their own words and are not listed: Hotel Juraku, Iseya, Futaba and Itoen Hotel Iizaka Kanaya, whose own bath page is stricter than its group’s FAQ. Iizaka’s public bathhouses, Sabako-yu among them, publish no rule and rent no private bath. Some Iizaka inns, Shinmatsuba and Kikuya among them, add a bathing tax of ¥150 per adult to the bill.

Getting there

Tickets for the ride in

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Common questions

Iizaka and Tsuchiyu questions

Can I use a shared bath in Iizaka or Tsuchiyu with a tattoo?

No inn in either town says yes in writing for its shared baths, and four in Iizaka say no. Yumori Onsen Hostel in Tsuchiyu comes closest: it calls its spring tattoo-friendly, and the way it offers is one of its private baths. Every place on this page is listed for a bath you have to yourself.

Where can I lock a bath for free?

In Iizaka, Shinmatsuba’s marble family bath and Okina’s cypress private bath are free whenever they are empty, all three of Aoba’s baths lock from inside, and Kikuya gives any staying guest 30 minutes in an open-air bath. In Tsuchiyu, New Ogiya has three free family baths, Harumiya’s four baths lock when free, and Satonoyu runs every bath one party at a time.

Which places rent a private bath by the hour?

Yoshikawaya’s barrier-free bath Yuno is ¥2,750 for 45 minutes, and Hananose’s balcony bath over the gorge ¥2,200 an hour. In Tsuchiyu, Yumori’s four private baths run ¥1,500 to ¥4,000 an hour, Sansuiso’s four ¥1,100 to ¥2,200, and the village bathhouse Nakanoyu rents four for ¥1,500 per 50 minutes on top of its ¥500 entry, with no stay needed.

How do I get there from Tokyo?

Take the Yamabiko or Tsubasa to Fukushima, about 1 hour 35 minutes. For Iizaka, the Iizaka line runs to Iizaka-Onsen in 23 minutes; the inns in town are a walk, and the Anahara inns send a car. For Tsuchiyu, the Fukushima Kotsu bus from the east exit takes about 40 to 45 minutes to the Tsuchiyu Onsen terminal.

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