Shizuoka · 1 h 40 from Tokyo · Onsen town

Tattoo friendly onsen in Shuzenji

Three hotels here publish the same seal size, which this guide has not met anywhere else. Izu Marriott Hotel Shuzenji and Laforet Shuzenji Sanshisuimei, neighbors on the Odaira plateau, each allow two cover seals of 8 by 10 centimeters; Breezbay Shuzenji Hotel, at the far end of town, allows one of the same size. Nobody else writes a rule down. The two Kyoritsu Resort inns answer with free private baths instead, four of them at Yukairo Kikuya and seven at Katsuragawa.

3 properties

Cover seal required

Smaller tattoos accepted when fully covered by a waterproof patch. What this means

Illustration of Izu Marriott Hotel Shuzenji in Odaira, on the plateau about two kilometers above the old town
Odaira, on the plateau about two kilometers above the old town Resort hotel ★★★★★ Confirmed

Izu Marriott Hotel Shuzenji

伊豆マリオットホテル修善寺

Cover it and you can bathe. The hotel turns tattooed guests away from the large bath as a rule, then writes the exception into the same sentence: two cover seals of 8cm × 10cm, hiding the tattoo, and you may use it. The hotel does not say whether it sells the seals, so bring your own.

タトゥー(入れ墨)を入れている方のご入浴はお断りしています。ただし、カバーシール(8cm×10cm)2枚でタトゥーを隠していただける場合のみご入浴可能です。

Best for: A traveler who wants Mount Fuji from the window and is willing to tape up before the bath

Large bath on the first floor, 06:00–11:00 and 13:00–24:00. There is also a swimwear zone, 10:00–22:00, which is a different proposition: swimwear is worn, so a tattoo is simply visible. Alkaline simple spring. The hotel shares the Odaira 1529 address with Laforet Shuzenji Sanshisuimei.

Izu Marriott Hotel Shuzenji tattoo policy → Check availability
Illustration of Laforet Shuzenji Sanshisuimei in Odaira, inside the Laforet resort estate
Odaira, inside the Laforet resort estate Resort hotel ★★★★☆ Confirmed

Laforet Shuzenji Sanshisuimei

ホテルラフォーレ修善寺 山紫水明

The rule for Mori-no-yu, the resort’s big bath, is a refusal with a measured way around it: two cover seals of 8cm × 10cm over the tattoo and you are in. The hotel points guests to the front desk for anything the sentence does not cover. Every room here has its own hot spring open-air bath as well, so the seal is only needed for the large bath.

タトゥー(入れ墨)を入れている方のご入浴はお断りしています。ただし、カバーシール(8cm×10cm)2枚でタトゥーを隠していただける場合のみご入浴可能です。

Best for: Anyone who wants the tattoo question to be optional: the room bath answers it, the seal handles the rest

Forty-eight rooms, all with a hot spring open-air bath on the terrace; the Fuji-side rooms look at the mountain from the tub. Mori-no-yu is the shared bath, with an outdoor bath and sauna, and is shared with the wider resort. The estate covers about fifty acres of forest, so a shuttle runs to Shuzenji STN.

Laforet Shuzenji Sanshisuimei tattoo policy → Check availability
Illustration of Breezbay Shuzenji Hotel in Shuzenji, on the slope at the western end of the old town
Shuzenji, on the slope at the western end of the old town Hot spring hotel ★★★☆☆ Confirmed

Breezbay Shuzenji Hotel

ブリーズベイ修善寺ホテル

One seal, and the hotel gives the size. Tattooed guests are refused the large bath in principle, but a single 8cm × 10cm cover seal that leaves nothing showing lifts the refusal. That is half the allowance the two Odaira hotels give, so a tattoo that needs two patches will not pass here.

タトゥーなどを入れたお客様の大浴場のご利用は、原則お断りしています。ただし、8㎝☓10㎝のカバーシール1枚で見えないようカバーしていただいた場合は、この限りではありません。

Best for: A single small tattoo on a budget: this is the cheapest bed in town with a written rule

Two shared baths: the Keikoku rock bath in Izu stone, 15:00–24:00 and 06:00–09:00, and a cave bath drilled into the hillside. The Manten open-air bath dates from 1961 and runs 15:00–24:00 and 06:00–08:40; it is taken first come, first served on the day and cannot be reserved ahead. Weakly alkaline simple spring.

Breezbay Shuzenji Hotel tattoo policy → Check availability
5 properties

Private baths only

Tattoos are fine in a private or in-room bath. The communal baths are restricted, or the policy is unconfirmed. What this means

Illustration of Yukairo Kikuya in Shuzenji, on the Katsura river in the middle of the old town
Shuzenji, on the Katsura river in the middle of the old town Ryokan ★★★★☆ Confirmed

Yukairo Kikuya

湯回廊 菊屋

Kyoritsu Resort, which runs this inn, states the rule for the whole group: whatever the size, a tattooed guest should keep out of the large bath and use the room bath or a private bath instead. Here that alternative is four private baths that cost nothing and take no reservation. You check the sign on the door, and if it reads vacant you lock it from inside.

大きさに関わらず、入れ墨・刺青・タトゥーが入った方の大浴場のご利用はご遠慮いただいております。客室のお風呂や貸切風呂をご利用ください。

Best for: A tattooed traveler who wants to bathe four times before breakfast and pay nothing extra for it

Four private baths: Reimei-no-yu “Tsuki” (a round cypress tub), Reimei-no-yu “Hoshi” (open-air, facing trees), Kodai-no-yu (with a reclining tub) and Iwato-no-yu, which the inn calls its hottest. Open 24 hours, free, about 40 minutes a turn, no booking. The two large baths, the Kiku indoor bath and the Suzaku garden open-air bath, run 15:00–25:00 and 05:00–10:00 and are on added water, heating and filtration.

Yukairo Kikuya tattoo policy → Check availability
Illustration of Shuzenji Onsen Katsuragawa in Shuzenji, upstream on the Katsura river
Shuzenji, upstream on the Katsura river Hot spring hotel ★★★★☆ Confirmed

Shuzenji Onsen Katsuragawa

湯めぐりの宿 修善寺温泉 桂川

Same operator, same sentence, more baths. Kyoritsu Resort asks tattooed guests of any size to stay out of the large bath and use a room bath or a private one; at Katsuragawa the private ones number seven, cost nothing, and are used as many times as you like without booking. A tattooed guest can spend the whole stay here and never share water with a stranger.

大きさに関わらず、入れ墨・刺青・タトゥーが入った方の大浴場のご利用はご遠慮いただいております。客室のお風呂や貸切風呂をご利用ください。

Best for: Working through seven different tubs in one night without asking anyone’s permission

The seven are Toji-no-yu, Meiso-no-yu, Iwaza-no-yu, Hiba-no-yu, Hakkaku-no-yu (an eight-sided tub), Shutsubo-no-yu (a vermilion jar) and Tsuchikabe-no-yu. Hours 15:00–25:00 and 05:00–10:00, free, no reservation: the door sign tells you whether it is taken. Two large baths, each with an indoor and an outdoor half, run 15:00–24:00 and 05:00–10:00. The house also puts out free late-night ramen.

Shuzenji Onsen Katsuragawa tattoo policy → Check availability
Illustration of Yagyu-no-Sho in Shuzenji, in the bamboo at the top of the old town
Shuzenji, in the bamboo at the top of the old town Ryokan ★★★★★ Confirmed

Yagyu-no-Sho

柳生の庄

No tattoo rule is published, so this is filed on structure. Six of the fifteen rooms have an open-air bath of their own, and the inn states that the bath in every room runs on free-flowing hot spring water. Book one of those six and the shared bath never comes up. The inn says nothing about the shared bath and tattoos, and that silence is not an answer.

Best for: A sukiya-built room with its own spring-fed tub and dinner served in it

The six rooms with an open-air bath are Matsu-no-sho (122 m²), Ume-no-sho (96 m², detached), Ichiju (119 m²), Tsukikage (98 m²), Meigetsu (69 m²) and Yuzuki (79 m²). The inn states “お風呂は全室温泉の温泉掛け流しです”, so the water in the room baths is spring water, not heated tap.

Yagyu-no-Sho tattoo policy → Check availability
Illustration of Oninosumika in Shuzenji, at the quiet western edge past Yagyu-no-Sho
Shuzenji, at the quiet western edge past Yagyu-no-Sho Ryokan ★★★★★ Confirmed

Oninosumika

修善寺離れ宿 鬼の栖

There is no shared bath to have a rule about. The inn states that every room has its own open-air, semi-open-air or indoor bath, and its bath page describes nothing else: no large bath, no reservable family bath. Nine rooms, nine baths, and the question of who else is in the water does not arise.

全ての客室に専用の露天風呂や半露天風呂、または内風呂を備えています

Best for: A traveler who would rather the shared bath simply not exist

The nine rooms are Shimogamo, Arashiyama, Yamashina, Uji, Saga, Kiyomizu, Kurama, Higashiyama and Nagasaki, all named for places in and around Kyoto. Seven have an open-air bath and two a semi-open-air one; Saga and Nagasaki are maisonettes. All are detached and all are fed with Shuzenji spring water. Kaiseki dinner. Reception answers 09:00–19:00.

Oninosumika tattoo policy → Check availability
Illustration of Sora Togetsuso Kinryu in Shuzenji, on the hillside above the Katsura river with a garden below
Shuzenji, on the hillside above the Katsura river with a garden below Ryokan ★★★½☆ Confirmed

Sora Togetsuso Kinryu

宙 SORA 渡月荘金龍

No rule is published for the shared baths, so the answer here is the two reservable open-air baths, Iwa and Ishi. They are booked at check-in, 40 minutes for 2,000 yen, and the inn asks that no soap be used in them. Rooms on the fourth and fifth floors add a semi-open-air hot spring tub on the terrace, which is the surer route.

貸切風呂=40分/2,000円 ご予約はチェックイン時に承ります。

Best for: Forty minutes alone in a stone tub over the garden, arranged at the front desk when you arrive

Twenty-nine rooms. Shared baths are the Hikari open-air bath, designed by Tsujimura Hisanobu, and the Yuyake open-air bath looking at sunset over Mount Daruma, plus indoor baths with sauna and cold tub. Source temperature 61.2°C, alkaline simple spring. Soap and toiletries are not allowed in the two private baths.

Sora Togetsuso Kinryu tattoo policy → Check availability
Traveler’s note

Hako-yu is the last of the seven town baths Shuzenji once had, and the Izu City tourism association that runs it gives hours, price and spring type without touching the tattoo question, so it is not listed. Arai Ryokan, the cultural-property inn on the river, could not be read at all: its own site refuses every request made to it. Asaba would have been a clean listing, with ten of its sixteen rooms on a free-flowing spring bath, but it appears on neither Booking.com nor Agoda.

Getting there

Tickets for the ride in

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Common questions

Shuzenji questions

Can I use a shared bath in Shuzenji with a tattoo?

At three hotels, covered. Izu Marriott Hotel Shuzenji and Laforet Shuzenji Sanshisuimei each admit a tattoo hidden under two cover seals of 8 by 10 centimeters, and Breezbay Shuzenji Hotel admits one seal of that size. None of the three says it sells seals, so pack your own.

Which Shuzenji inns send tattooed guests to a private bath?

Yukairo Kikuya and Katsuragawa. Both are Kyoritsu Resort houses, and the group rule keeps a tattoo of any size out of the large bath while naming the private baths as the alternative. Kikuya has four and Katsuragawa seven, all free, all opened by reading the sign on the door.

Are there inns here with no shared bath at all?

Oninosumika is nine detached cottages, each with a spring-fed tub of its own and no large bath anywhere on the property. At Yagyu-no-Sho six of the fifteen rooms have an open-air bath, and Sora Togetsuso Kinryu books its two open-air baths at check-in, 40 minutes for 2,000 yen.

How do I get to Shuzenji from Tokyo?

The Odoriko limited express goes straight through from Tokyo in 2 h 08. The quicker way is the Shinkansen to Mishima in 42 minutes, then the Izuhakone Sunzu line up the valley for 37 more, about 1 h 40 including the change.

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